WATCH YOUR STEPPE!
JOURNAL ENTRY NO. 10
Still in the Altai Mountain Range, the terrain changes from massive climbs to high altitude Steppe, or “rolling hills with flat plateau's”. These Steppe, as they are known, start in Siberia and carry on through the North to the East of Mongolia.
14th - 19th JULY 2007
Altai Mountains to the Mongolian Border
The people in this area are absolutely fantastic. There is a heavy Kazakh influence which means the people are extremely generous, hospitable and very, very warm natured. We met some great people in this area and ate some tasty food as well.
It is sad to leave the beautifully forested mountains, alpine scent and clear flowing streams for these barren gassy hills but such is the nature of this adventure! It must be said that the Steppe has a magic of its own though and we are blessed with some awesome scenery.
Hearing stories along the way that we needed a special permit for the border region, we began asking people about it. All the answers we were given indicated we must collect this permit from the police in Aktash, a small town a couple of hundred k's from the border with Mongolia. The riding to Aktash was straightforward: small hills, slight downhills and plenty of flat Steppe to traverse. Even so, hampered by tiredness we were leaving late and not clocking up big k's but we were having fun and enjoying the riding.
Upon arrival in Aktash, we found the “cop shop” and wandered in. Cavey had been wearing the head-cam and backpack so decided to leave it running. Only after spending 20 mins or so trying to communicate with the nice officers did we realise “permit” meant Mongolian Visa, which we already had! Oh man! The cops then realised it was a camera on top of Cavey's head and asked us to turn it off.... “it was never on” came Cavey's reply. Riding off and around the corner we burst into laughter, hoping we had some awesome footage for RTE!
2 days later we arrive in Kosh Agach, the last large town before Olgiy in Mongolia about a weeks ride away, to replenish food supplies and cash! Food – no probs; Cash – NO CAN DO! Oh Crap!
Asking for info about the distance to Tashanta, Siberia's Border town, we meet a local policeman who organises his brother in law to take us to his house for lunch and to meet his family. We hang there for a few hours and he then takes us to a local hotel, our first one for quite some time. Our next move- go to the bank – NO CAN DO!!! Only local Russian cards – so between us we have only 200 Roubles – enough to get us to Olgiy – Maybe! We can get cash at the bank there - Maybe!
Well here goes nothing! As we make to leave the two of us have our first ever, semi all-out verbal with each other. Cavey, Dylan, Cavey, Dylan, Cavey. The pressure over the last few months is released and taken out on each other. It was bound to happen! As only brothers can, apologies flowed a little later. 2 nights on we were camping with a heard of goats, atop a hill, in Tashanta at the Siberian/ Mongolian Border. ALRIGHT!!!
Our first country - Russia - under the belt!
Crossing the border proved more difficult than expected. We were told by a nice border official that there was: 1. No riding horses across the border. 2. There was no riding bicycles across the border, and 3. There was no walking across the border. The reason being is that there is a 30km neutral zone between Russia and Mongolia and no-one is allowed to stop in that zone – fair enough.We would have to wait for a lift from a passing vehicle! But that could take a week! We put away our pride of riding all the way to Everest and talk about the trip so far. We manage to organise a ride in a Furgon (Russian van) and get to the check post.
We've done it! Or so we thought! The check-in guard holds us up and tries to question us about all sorts of things until the “head honcho” turns up! He walks out the door – it's one of the guys Cavey was chatting and laughing with while waiting at the Border Gate! He smiles at us, pats Cavey on the shoulder, gets cross at the check in guard, gives our passports back and waves us through – welcome to Mongolia he says in broken Ruskie before smiling again and disappearing through a door! We're in!!!
30 bumpy km's later (with 9 people crammed into the van, and Dylan sitting on Cavey's lap telling people we are just friends) we are at the Mongol check post. The lady checking-in passports wants a copy – Cavey motions to the bottom of his bag in the back of the van and starts to unpack it. Dyl just keeps saying copy here, copy here, she speaks with some other officials, turns and says to us “Welcome to Mongolia” while motioning us to go – Yehaa! Mongolia here we come.
100 metres through the gate we ask the driver to stop the van, unload the rigs and eqipment, and give him 80 Roubles – now we are in trouble. Bar some small change we have no money and little food! Olgiy – we hope you aren't too far!
Russia over, we have covered approx 1100 km's. Cavey 5 flats, Dyl 0; Cavey 5 broken spoke nipples, Dylan 0. Both of us have been massacred by mozzies and midge's, met awesome people, ate delicious food and seen some absolutely stunning scenery. It is now time for the next chapter in Ride to Everest - Mongolia!