WE CALL THEM "VAMPOZZIES"!
JOURNAL ENTRY NO. 12
Well, we must say that Olgiy proved to be a valuable resting point. We were able to recharge all the equipment using our solar panels, relax by a great swimming/ washing/ bathing/ cleaning river, finally get to the bank and buy a decent meal.... and a beer, or few, and generally recharge the rigs.We sent some bits and pieces home, met some other foreigners and departed into the wilderness refreshed and alive.... again.
22nd JULY - 1st AUGUST 2007
Olgiy to Khovd City
The “Avalanches” were performimg perfectly. Gear changes still smooth, brakes stopping us instantly and tyres and rims handling the weight much better. The paint well.... stone chips here and there.... they didn't affect performance! And us, well we are turning slowly but surely, into machines ourselves. After the Altai Mountains, in 40°C + heat, we can surely handle this.
Now you know that the blood suckers are really starving when you are pedalling vigourously and they are coating every centremetre of your body and chowing down! Stopping now would surely be instant death from blood loss! We spent the next hour in hysterics as each of us swatted at mozzies all over our bodies. Not so fun when you are getting bitten ferociously, but sweet when it's your mate. Cavey needed to stop for a quick rest.... and it ended up being quick – maybe 2 minutes if that.
A thorough assessment of the bikes revealed only the broken spoke nipples, flat tyres and slightly worn rear treads on both tredlies.Pretty good for 1200 km's! As for our physiques.... they were slightly browner, a few scabs here and there from pedals and cranks, a million midge bites on Cavey's ankles and that's about it.
Heading out for Khovd, approx 230 kms South East of Olgiy Dyl is struct down with a bout of the shits and spits and RAS – “Running Arse Syndrome”.... we made it a massive 6km!
Not to be outdone, the following day Cavey lay's himself out with dehydratrion and slight heatstroke! Awesome.... 39kms in 2 days! Although it is here at Tolbo Nuur (while Cavey is busy being exhausted) that we meet “Mama and Papa” and their children. They invite us to camp near their “dom” (house made of mud bricks and rocks) beside a crystal mountain stream. Mama makes traditional “Mongolian Sausage” from a freshly slaughtered goat using the large intestine stuffed with all the vital organs and blood.
On the move to Khovd we encountered the dreaded mosquito again.... and one night sounded like we had pitched the tent beside the International Airport.... you get the picture!
It is actually extremely tasty and reserved for special guests.... we were honoured to say the least.
What really struck us here was the peacefulness of the land. It was quiet, the wind moved softly, there was a layer of short, green grass covering everything, beautiful crystal clear lakes nestled at the base of magnificent mountains, and to top it off the whole scene was scattered with the white domes of the traditional felt gers. Magnificent is the only way to describe it. The sky so blue and vast, hanging so low you could just about touch it and dirt and sandy tracks heading off in every direction.
Camping on grassy meadows beside lakes and streams we were prime targets for the most annoying animal in the world – the mozzie. We were prepared for them, but to no avail – they drink DEET in Mongolia (the mozzies that is!). Trying to prepare and cook dinner, wash yourself, unload and pack the bikes and of course go to the loo – is practically impossible.
Fanging along rutted-out road, cruising at around 15 – 20km per hour in the searing heat approx 15km's from Khovd we thought we had made it to safety! But alas we were wrong. Cavemans dehydration problem kicked in again and we hit a knarly up hill section of 5km's.
The only way to shake these Vampozzies was to hit 50 + km an hour downhill, on a sandy road, with 40kg of gear each on the back, and hang on. At least we weren't being bitten. Needles to say, as it was also getting dark, we both just about ate sand for dinner.... luckily it didn't happen!
Entering Khovd City in the dark Dyl smashed a pothole – flat. Cavey lay flat and got crook, the cops told us to move on, and we were only half the men we were that morning. Oh well, at least the Bayant Hotel let us stay! 4 nights in total. Not the Marriott or the Hilton – but close enough for weary, runny bottomed cyclists.