NO GOODBYES PLEASE
JOURNAL ENTRY NO. 14
20th - 28th AUGUST 2007
Altai City to Uliastai
We quickly scoped the joint for a half decent feed and found one with the help of some friendly, half-cut locals. A neat little quanz (restaurant) tucked behind, under and down beneath a large business. The food was a welcome source of nourishment after our long, intense, desert weight-loss programme. The Gobi had claimed many kilograms by now! Both of us could not believe the change to our bodies – we looked like machines. Seeing as Dyl was still regularly crapping his dacks, he headed to the hospital and chemist to top up our taxed medical supplies.
Altai City is nestled at the base of some beautiful mountains. As we entered the outskirts, by wind power, it reminded us of an old western ..... something our fathers would love to see. Dusty old roads, packs of dogs, plenty of people going about their business ..... even tumble weed. WOW!!!
Resting in Altai we went on the hunt for internet connection, which we found, although it was slow and sometimes intermittent! It was here that “Ze Germans” and ourselves became friends. They were sitting at the net trying to upload some photos as we tried to email relies.
Holger and Anja are travelling through Europe, Asia, Indonesia and Australia/ New Zealand on BMW Dakar GS 650 motorbikes.... yes 1 each! Nice bikes! But where do you put the batteries?
Over the next 4 days we spent many hours over meals discussing everything.... and trying to order vegetarian food for Anja – which is similar to squeezing blood from a stone in Mongolia. Which brings us to the point of Mongolian cuisine. It is very strange that a country that has ingredients for awesome meals – meat potato's, carrot, cabbage, rice, pasta, tomato's, garlic, mushrooms, eggs, and oil – can only serve a variation of the one meal – bifsteaks. Basically, a mince pattie with shredded salad; or goulash – stewed meat with chopped veggies; or tsulvan – pasta with tiny, tiny pieces of fried meat fat/ sometimes meat! Incredible!
So it was always a challenge to feed Anja, although she did pick at little pieces of prime cut shredded meat from time to time. It was easy to eat with Holger as the 3 of us mainly had liquid meals – choice hops, slightly chilled, Mongolian tasting and straight out of the bottle! Ahhh.... Beer!
Re-checking the equipment and the maps, we realised we would only need one solar panel/ battery system and one fuel bottle, so we sent one solar panel home to Oz and sold the battery and fuel bottle at the local bazaar for just under what we bought it for in Oz – Alright!
While we were grooming equipment, “Ze Germans” were awaiting new rear suspension being sent from Germany. Their aftermarket souped-up “spension” had crapped it, leaving them limping into Altai. One flight every 4 days from U.B to Altai City.... so they had been in Altai a week already! Needless to say we helped them insert and rebuild both machines before we all left on the following day – they towards Bayanhongor, in direct line with Ulaan Bataar, and us heading North to Uliastai, Moron and Khovsgol Nuur. It was a sad but happy parting. Now good friends for life.... www.2aufreisen.de ....... and ........ www.ridetoeverest.com.
Heading out of Altai we rode straight into some of the most beautiful countryside we had ever seen. Massive expanses of nothing but rolling hills covered in short, rubbery grass. And the light was amazing! We were still technically on the fringe of the Western Gobi, but we could see the change immediately. Gone was the seriously harsh landscape of rocks, dust and dirt; here was a yellow sandy, grass covered landscape with a massive blue sky. We both thoroughly enjoyed this section. Still, there were moments when we thought we were back between Khovd and Altai City!
The people out here are totally amazing. They all live in gers (except some small villages) scattered around the open expanses, collect water from wells or the occasional stream, spend the day making food or herding their flocks and generally having a great communal lifestyle. We were envious. Nearly every horseman we spotted came over to stop us and offer cigarettes or occasionally.... Vodka. They just sit or stand, and just stare most times. When they have had their fill they just leave – no goodbyes. If only we could do that back home!
The section from Altai City to Uliastai is used very little by western tourists. Most travel through the North of Mongolia or, if they are in the South, from U.B. to Bayanhongor to Altai City – the route is more direct and well travelled by Mongolians. Heading North are some huge mountain ranges and we encountered a few of these before Uliastai!
The largest started 50 km's out of Uliastai and finished.... well let's just say Uliastai is nestled in a beautiful valley!
It was at this point we had our third heated discussion and “concentrated” riding session. Needless to say a couple hours and 10 km's of solid uphill broke that silence and we sat to enjoy a cup of tea before a 20 km downhill section into Uliastai. We were joined by a Mongolian guy and then a Mongolian couple - extremely relaxing.
The downhill was a blast. Top speeds of 65 – 70 and overtaking the odd vehicle – exhilarating after the solid climb!
Rolling into Uliastai we retracted our statement about Altai City being like a town in a western.... Uliastai was that town now! Open roads of dirt and some sealed, one tree-lined street and plenty of people on horses on all the other main streets! “Now where is John Wayne?”